Need step by step help on plugs and wires

foundmustang · 05-17-2006, 05:30 AM

While I've rebuild a 72 corvette from the ground up, I can't even see any plugs or wires in my 99 GT. (this wasn't easy to admit) Pics would help. My Haynes manual is little help determining what's what.

mcmmotorsports · 05-17-2006, 05:53 AM

http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm

spike_africa · 05-17-2006, 08:06 AM

well thats that.

foundmustang · 05-22-2006, 07:41 PM

So there really are NO plug wires, just the COP. Right? Can the COP go bad and need replaced?

mcmmotorsports · 05-22-2006, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foundmustang

So there really are NO plug wires, just the COP. Right? Can the COP go bad and need replaced?

Yes indeed.

foundmustang · 05-23-2006, 05:34 AM

Is there a test for the COP?

mcmmotorsports · 05-23-2006, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foundmustang

Is there a test for the COP?

I am pretty sure that if one goes bad it trips a CEL.

foundmustang · 06-09-2006, 04:35 AM

Those directions look good, but my GT looks a bit more crowded than this Bullitt. It looks like I might have to disturb the fuel injection rails or whatever the chrome pieces on either bank are. I hope not. Anybody know?

mcmmotorsports · 06-09-2006, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foundmustang

Those directions look good, but my GT looks a bit more crowded than this Bullitt. It looks like I might have to disturb the fuel injection rails or whatever the chrome pieces on either bank are. I hope not. Anybody know?

No, you will not have to disturb ANYTHING. I just changed my plugs for a second time last week. The boots flex right around the rails. Cake job, even for a beginner.

r3dn3ck · 06-09-2006, 09:51 AM

you unscrew the set screws on the COP's and just lean them out. The base of them is a LONG rubber boot with a metal conductor coil (looks like a spring) down the middle of it. They bend well. You'll need a real spark plug socket and a 6" or better extension on your ratchet. Remember that these are aluminum heads so use a little anti-seize on the threads when you replace them and DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES over tighten them.

Took me a while to get used to not having plug wires but the COP system is much more accurate than mechanically fired ingnitions and there's no moving parts like a classic distributor. Just remember, there's not much that's functionally different than a old school motor, it just looks different from part to part. Think of the COP's as your plug wires and the crank trigger wheel as the distributor. The injectors just plug into the rail and are held in with rubber o-rings. To disconnect the fuel rail (if needed) just remove the screws that hold it down and lift straight up. Keep a rag under it to catch any spilled fuel.

Ghostalker · 06-09-2006, 09:54 AM

damn that bullitt intake is nice...

05-17-2006, 05:30 AM	#1 (permalink)
foundmustang Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 13	Need step by step help on plugs and wires While I've rebuild a 72 corvette from the ground up, I can't even see any plugs or wires in my 99 GT. (this wasn't easy to admit) Pics would help. My Haynes manual is little help determining what's what.

05-17-2006, 05:53 AM	#2 (permalink)
mcmmotorsports One Bad Mother Trucker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Eastern, NC Posts: 2,809	http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm __________________

05-17-2006, 08:06 AM	#3 (permalink)
spike_africa Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Orlando,Florida Posts: 7,800	well thats that. __________________ Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted WOOO HOOOO!

06-09-2006, 09:54 AM	#11 (permalink)
Ghostalker BOLO 4 ME Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Danbury, CT Posts: 2,382	damn that bullitt intake is nice... __________________ Ghosty is in need of some mods...

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05-22-2006, 07:41 PM	#4 (permalink)
foundmustang Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 13	So there really are NO plug wires, just the COP. Right? Can the COP go bad and need replaced?

05-23-2006, 05:34 AM	#6 (permalink)
foundmustang Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 13	Is there a test for the COP?

06-09-2006, 04:35 AM	#8 (permalink)
foundmustang Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 13	Those directions look good, but my GT looks a bit more crowded than this Bullitt. It looks like I might have to disturb the fuel injection rails or whatever the chrome pieces on either bank are. I hope not. Anybody know?

06-09-2006, 09:51 AM	#10 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 7,149	you unscrew the set screws on the COP's and just lean them out. The base of them is a LONG rubber boot with a metal conductor coil (looks like a spring) down the middle of it. They bend well. You'll need a real spark plug socket and a 6" or better extension on your ratchet. Remember that these are aluminum heads so use a little anti-seize on the threads when you replace them and DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES over tighten them. Took me a while to get used to not having plug wires but the COP system is much more accurate than mechanically fired ingnitions and there's no moving parts like a classic distributor. Just remember, there's not much that's functionally different than a old school motor, it just looks different from part to part. Think of the COP's as your plug wires and the crank trigger wheel as the distributor. The injectors just plug into the rail and are held in with rubber o-rings. To disconnect the fuel rail (if needed) just remove the screws that hold it down and lift straight up. Keep a rag under it to catch any spilled fuel.

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