96gtstang

so somtimes after i drive my car somwher and then come back to restart it it gives me a buncha trouble like i have to crank it and work the gas pedal a bit to get it started almost like a car with a carb thats real cold--once started i smell a TONNN of fuel--this has gone on for a while and now is getting really bad and annoying--i have talked to alot of ppl and tried to figure out what it would be--this is what i have come up with--it is either one of two things or maybe both lol...1-it almost acts as if the elctronic/automatic choke on the throttle body is sticking and therfore when the car is warm the choke is still trying to start it as if it is cold so i dont kno if ther is like a sensor or somthin for that?- number 2- maybe the fuel regulator is going bad which would explain why it is progressivly getting worse---
any one think either/or are the prob--
im like 99% its a sensor/elctrical prob. because at first when the car is cold in the mornin or w/e everything acts PERRRRFECT--- i mean the motor runs excellent--

also b4 any1 suggests it i have already cleaned the IAC and all that other stuff that would be common sense

bassman97

I have the same exact problem, though for me, it usually happens in very cold weather or when it's raining.

96gtstang

anyone?????

spike_africa

Well for one your car is EFi so pumping the gas while you try to start it does nothing. The car doesnt have a choke really it just rasies the idle a bit to help it warm up faster and get out of closed loop mode.

I would lean towards the FPR if its smelling like alot of fuel like you said once its started.

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Dustin

2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed
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bassman97

The thing is hitting the gas works since that's what I usually do if my car won't start after the 3rd try. The smell of gas is just from all the attempted starts. Think about it, while the engine is cranking, it is pumpin gas into the engine and then into the exhaust since it doesn't ignite. Since I have a similar problem (mine only happens in the cold or damp conditions), I would put my money on a poor connection. That is, one of the connections is loose.

96gtstang

i completely understand what your sayin spike bout it not helpin start the car im pretty familiar with carb'ed systems and efi systems but the thing is i believe when ya give it some throttle the butterfly inside the TB opens an closes? i may be mistaken but 4 sho i was startin to lean more toward the fuel pressure regulator. however my moms suv had the FPR go on it and the truck spelled like fuel ALLLLL the time while it was running it was gettin so over loaded with fuel...which is the one thing that held me back from bein 100% on the fpr cuz my car only smells like that for a min or so like once it finally starts it will bogg terribly while i try to rev it from bein overloaded with fuel but once it burns that out its fine

StormsGT

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Stock FPR should be around 32psi.

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[IMG]StormsGT, Should be stormscobra now. #3216 BBK Cold air kit, BBK underdrives, Steeda sub frame connectors,BBK progressive springs,Hurst billet plus shifter,Auto meter shift light,Steeda UCA'sand Lakewood LCA's BBK 62mm T.B.17X9 With 255/40sumitomo HTR Z's,17X10.5 with 315/35 sumitomo HTR Z's or 315/35 BFG G-Force DR's depends on the time of year.Dr. Gas O/R X-pipe and 2 1/2" Flow's with Flowmaster 40's and dumps.FRPP 4.10's.The other toy is a 72' Nova. Small block,4-speed & 10 bolt

qikfun

Cleaning the IAC does not always fix it, you cannot visually see it being defective. Maybe before dropping $90 swap with someone local if possible.

96gtstang

ya i kno 4 a fact that the IAC is rarely the problem, its just i see that as a response so so many questions on this site lol but are you sayin swap the FPR wit som1, i was thinkin about disconnection it and cleanin the connections first