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| Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs. |
| View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans? | |||
| Not swapping. Think you guys are nuts for trying. |
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10 | 3.66% |
| Not swapping but find the topic interesting. |
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73 | 26.74% |
| Thinking about doing the swap but not in the next year. |
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77 | 28.21% |
| Definitely going to do the swap in the next year or so. |
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57 | 20.88% |
| Doing it now. Looking for an engine or awaiting delivery. |
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20 | 7.33% |
| Doing it now. Already bought an engine. |
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24 | 8.79% |
| Done. Got my 5.4L and showin my tail lights to camaro's every day. |
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12 | 4.40% |
| Voters: 273. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#4202 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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Guys, quick suggestions/opinions. Karkraft has bare aluminum 5.4 blocks with stock bores for $443. to my door. They also have rebuilt Lightening short blocks for $1895. plus shipping available. They have forged pistons but the stock powder rods and about 9.5:1 compression.
EBay has forged pistons(339grans/rings and forged rods/H-beam called ACE(?) for $788. With the bare block I could get forged rods and the higher compression I would like. However I would need more parts to comlete the motor such as the front cover/crank. I plan on getting a set of heads done whether even a set of the infamous Patriots to one of the better known shops that specialize in modulars. Looking for the ultimate interstate cruiser but I am hard on my vehicles so the forged rods could be a benefit even though the stock rods may be all that I would need! This is going to be a project that as stated before I want to do correctly from the start. I plan to do the 5.4 as cash allows and then get the Mustang to the shop and have them do the swap useing as many of the 4.6 pieces as possible. Right now with the info I have given what are your opinions, bare aluminum or wait and get a short block but never know what they(karkraft) will have as they change inventory constantly. I am leaning towards the aluminum bare 5.3 block myself for the options it would allow and aluminum is lighter and my car is a convertible. Thanks and am sure pleased I found this thread and am even excited as I haven't done a motor in a few years and having a specific goal of as much torque as possible is nice too! If you need to ask a question or 2 please do! THX, mark |
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#4203 (permalink) | ||||
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Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 6,513
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Quote:
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I would find a donor motor for the front cover and all the little bits, have that rebuilt with whatever bits you like best, and bolt that bad boy up.
__________________
![]() Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com My CarDomain Page |
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#4204 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 90
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http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...=905267&page=4
*949.99 is for 18 cc dish i just ordered mine(11cc dish) from them for about 1100 total shipped MMR rods with arp2000 bolts(really just a relabeled manley) MMR Manley pistons .20 over with locks/pins/plasma moly rings etc Last edited by SleepingGT : 05-08-2008 at 08:53 AM. |
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#4205 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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Thanks, I might have bought a 4.6 aluminum! A mind is a terrible thing to waste, especially your own!
How about one of the 5.4 blocks they have at www.karkraft.com Then I could add the forged parts that you referrenced me to(THANKS!) Not sure if stock bore pistons are available there but saving 2lbs of rotating weight is cool. I'd like to get this started with a block, possibly a motor from a yard depending on the cost. I'll price out a running motor locally and then post that here to get opinions on what is the best way to go. It seems that the crank and front cover are the items I really neeed from a donor motor, right? |
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#4206 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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well, lucky for me i pulled the headers to send to r3d. it seems that there are a couple cyl not sealing right. there was oil in the exhaust so what i heard was right about probe having crappy rings on thier forged pistons. ordering some plasma moly rings today and rering the motor while r3d has my headers to play with....
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5.4 project in progress linky-> http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm T-Rods Coatings - Custom all the way.... http://www.illwillinc.com/ |
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#4207 (permalink) |
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Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 6,513
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I bought total seal rings IIRC. Cost 100 bucks extra but appears to be worth it.
__________________
![]() Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com My CarDomain Page |
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#4208 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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how about a countdown for the intake????
can't wait.....
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5.4 project in progress linky-> http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm T-Rods Coatings - Custom all the way.... http://www.illwillinc.com/ |
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#4209 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 108
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Anyone having ring seal problems...did you use deck plates for boring and honing?
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2003 Mustang GT, 5.4L Triton V8(LOL), Comp 270's gears and springs, Intercooled Precision T63, 42lb injectors, Flowmaster 3.5" Single Chamber, B&M Holeshot 3000, Racegate, Sniper Commando Tuning, Kenne Bell BAP, LM1 wideband driving factory computer, Best e.t before it through a rod in the 4.6L, 8.33@90mph in the 1/8th. on factory tires. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaJ2yQH1Ezs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1hiMJy3ezk |
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#4211 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 101
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because the mod motor bolts to the main bulkheads torque plates/deck plates are not necessary.
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1996 GT/ 2005 5.4 3v ____________________ CMC plates delete altered stock intake twin 57mm throttle body march pullies 160* t-stat custom 80mm C&L maf K&N best:1/8th 8.58 @ 81.49 = 277 rwhp/340 rwtq. |
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#4212 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 101
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so far in many years factory style plas-moly are cheap and work for thousands of miles.
of course total seal gapless are probably best. i just never use them.
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1996 GT/ 2005 5.4 3v ____________________ CMC plates delete altered stock intake twin 57mm throttle body march pullies 160* t-stat custom 80mm C&L maf K&N best:1/8th 8.58 @ 81.49 = 277 rwhp/340 rwtq. |
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#4213 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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Nightgwing, That intake will not match up to 3V heads will it? Aren't 2V, 3V and 4V heads all different as far as ports go? Or are they making an HPS for 3V's also?
I was going to say how about an SVO intake, the granddaddy of the Bullitt, dual 57mm throtle as you have now but a HUGE lower plenum that makes the Bullitt look.... well small! Had to make it smaller for the street and mass production as the SVO is for higher rpm's OR LARGER MOTORS! I did the coolant mod to it and could email a pic to somebody if they could post it here. I would like to have it in my sig but with webTV I can't do much. If I go ahead with the 5.4 it would likely make an excellent intake for the motor if it fits with hiod clearance. I was told that the adapter plates raise the intake an inch or two, correct? How much, PM Me, Mark Last edited by skylark : 05-09-2008 at 08:58 PM. |
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#4214 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lawrenceburg,KY
Posts: 111
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Unless you can get adaptors to match the tear drop shape of the intake and heads, the clearance issue will be a problem. Perhaps you can get a special made set of adaptors or do some welding on the already made PI adaptors. If not, then you will have to add more adaptors or possibly do some port matching and welding, that may save some space.
JUST IN CASE YOU DON'T KNOW SVO & NPI heads have a port shape that are close and look like a teardrop shape. As for the PI heads, the shape is more square. Does one flow better then the other? We can argue till we are blue in the face and get no where. SO don't start people! Last edited by 96blackgt54 : 05-10-2008 at 05:30 PM. |
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#4215 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4
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am very interested in doing this but i really dont have the time to read through all your threads. im in the usmc and only get 30min to use the computer. if u could tell me where to buy and cost it would help me out. I want the 5.4 4v and the up graded tko trans. i plan on buying all parts and taking it to a shop in socal or orange co. and watching there faces when i ask them to do it. o do any of u know a good shop in the area???
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#4216 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 90
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Quote:
www.modularmustangracing.com or you could contact them to get pricing etc on a street version but for 5.4 4v they are the guys to ask Turn Key Race Cars 2005+ Body Style, back half, 25.5 or 25.2 will run 7.30-7.90 Range $89,000 (outlaw or drag radial) 99-04 Body Style, back half, 25.5 or 25.2 will run 7.30-7.90 Range $79,000 (outlaw or drag radial) 99-04 Body Style, Factory style Suspension, 25.5 will run 7.70-8.10 Range $65,000 (drag radial) All above cars feature single or twin turbo 5.4 DOHC powerplants, FAST fuel injection, Fast Touch screen dash board/data logger and Air/liquid Intercoolers. CALL FOR DETAILS |
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#4217 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Truth be known I would like to get another Conquest car from '88 or '89. Not a ricer but a MOPAR! |
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#4218 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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#4219 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 90
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going to the machine shop to drop everything off tomorrow
![]() forged crank mmr h beams with arp2000's mmr manley pistons -11cc, 20 over plasma rings arp main/head studs +1mm stainless valves comp springs/retainers ported heads S-trim mongoose kit only things i don't have yet haven't decided on cams yet(probably tim's blower cams) hopefully the HPS comes out in time so i can drop it straight in longtubes...hoping i can modify my bbk's without too much trouble Last edited by SleepingGT : 05-11-2008 at 05:43 AM. |
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#4220 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4
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thanks for the reply. i dont have 80k so i just wanted a 5.4 and since im spending $$ i mine as well get the 4v. all i wanted was a cheap fuel injected motor to put the normal bolt ons underdrive pully, cai, plenum, t/b then when i get more $$$ heads cam and small turbo. i heard of adapter plates and dont really know what there for. anything else ill need
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#4221 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 34
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I really don't know what to do. The Mustang is mine as I would lose too much to sell. The adapter plates are to fit a 4.6 intake onto a 5.4 block. Speaking of which if the 5.4 sits about 1" taller exactly how mush extra height do the plates add? My SVO is like the Bullitt. Do I set a 3" piece of something soft on the intAKE AND SEE IF THE HOOD CLOSES!
I can bget that aluminum block but would have to do it this week as the sale ends friday, $440. shipped. The plates and 8-bolt flexplate are probably about that much. I believe the rest of the mods would be labor for adapting the 4.6 oil pan and modifyingt the mid pipe, is that correct? So the cost difference is whatever the yard wants for the 5.4 or wherever I can get one from. I cannot afford to get a $2000. block from karkraft at this time and the motor in the stang could last 2 years if driven easy, well not too hard! What are the stock cam specs of the 5.4, anyone? How about stock 5.4 rod/piston weights? Since I would be farming out all of the labor I need to have this done correctly. Do I have it correctly that the thread starter has a Comp 270 in his car, Colin, is that correct? The idea of a lot more torque at 1000rpm's less than a 4.6 and the extra 50 cubes for power could allow that I remove the 4.10's for the 3.27's and have a motor that is quicker than what I have now that gets better mileage as the torquw would likely make up for the extra cubes.Just look at new stangs and the GT mileage is just a couple of MPG more than the V6's due to the extra power/torque moving the 3600lbs. that much easier. I need some opinions from guys who hae done this mod, swap in a 5.4. I either act this week or wait until winter and see what happens with the price of fuel and other factors that are certainly out of my control. Getting the 4.6 aluminum is something I could do this week. Really it seems a wash financially, block vrs. adapters/flexplate are about nequal, then it is the cost of the 5.4 and having my car down for some time as the 4.6 is pulled and taken apart for the crank and other parts to build the 4.6 or have a 5.4 ready to drop into the car? I sure wish I could have a ride in a 5.4 NA and see what the difference between a 4.6 and a 5.4 is like! GUYS? |
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